The coach took 12 hours to reach Bloemfontein, most of which I spent sleeping, and we arrived at around 8am in the morning. It was straight in a taxi to the kombi rank where we easily found the kombi leaving for Maseru, the capital of Lesotho. It was then a easy hop over the border (such a relief seen as we had to be out SA by the 5th to avoid a fine and managed to leave on the 3rd) and we were in Lesotho. The country was like being back in the real Africa and reminded me a lot of Swaziland! In the city they had a funny taxi system, where for M5.50 the taxi driver would take you where you wanted to go, but at the same time would fill up the taxi with other people heading in the same direction. So it was a kind of kombi/taxi system that I actually thought was pretty cool! Before we headed to our first destination in Lesotho, Malealea, we had to stock up on food as we were heading into the most rural of rural. A stop at shoprite to buy bread, pasta, instant noodles and fruit then it was to the kombi rank to find the kombi to Malealea. We had a lovely man lead us through the rank to the kombi and then it was a half hour wait before we were off! Lesotho is honestly one of the most picturesque countries I have ever been to. There are mountains all around, with valley's and rivers running in between them. It was all just so breath-taking! As we went off the main road and onto a dirt track road we switched to another kombi that then took us straight to the gate of Malealea Lodge. Now, I have to be honest and say that Robyn and I didn't have much clue as to where we were. We had just read in the Lonely Planet that it was a good place to go and so just went with it! So one coach, three taxis, three kombies and 22 hours later and we had made it to Malealea, Lestho. A good but tiring days travelling!
Malealea Lodge was absolutely stunning. It was situated right in a village and only used people from the local community as employees. They only had electricity, which ran off a generator, between 6pm and 10pm, which made for a very relaxing atmosphere. On our first evening there we pretty much put up the tent then went to bed because we were so tired from the great distance we had just travelled. The next day we went on a 6 hour pony trek through the mountains and valleys that lay all around us. Pony Trekking is a must do in Lesotho. I had a horse called “Icetea”, whom I had my full trust in and had to have given the steep mountains he took me up and down! It was a brilliant day as I rode along, taking in all that was around me and experiencing the real Africa once again. The trek took us down one mountain, across the valley and river, up another mountain, down back into the valley, up the mountain again and then back to the lodge. It was just an incredible but indescribable day! That evening we spent quite a bit of time writing in our journals, Lesotho being the perfect place to try catch up on the days we had missed! It was also the perfect place to come relax and completely chill out after the crazy few weeks we'd just had in South Africa!
The next day we again headed out for the day, but this time on foot as we had a local guide take us to the waterfall and Bushman painting which could be found in the valley. Our guide was called Emmanuel and he was brilliant for telling us everything and anything about the area. After around 2 hours walking we made it to the waterfall which was absolutely stunning! It was hidden right in the valley amongst over-grown bushes and rock faces; the seclusion of it made it feel very special. It was then time to head onto the bushman painting which required another 2 or so hours walking to reach. Before reaching the painting, though, we came across the “Echo Cave” which the bushmen had used to communicate with each other while hunting. If you shouted into the cave the sound would hit off it, travel to another cave across the valley and your voice would be echoed across the whole valley. It was amazing to hear! A steep climb down the valley then back up the other side and we reached the caves where we could see, with our own eyes, pictures depicting hunting stories that had been painted by the bushmen 400 years ago. Real African rock art! On the walk back to the lodge we got caught in a thunderstorm passing over and got absolutely soaked! There was even hail at one point! Again, “Journal Club” took place that evening, along with some traditional fat cakes (basically just extremely stodgey bread) and some coffee liquor which Robyn kindly made. It was also this evening that we had to use a public phone to contact Beth, who is a vol in Jo'Burg, to ask if we could stay for a couple of days before heading back home. The phone had a huge ariel (that's how cut-off we were there) and the reception was so bad that I ended up shouting down the phone the whole time and attracting quite a crowd from around the village. Funny times, but Beth said yes so it was all good!
After our 3 night stay there it was time to head to another part of Lesotho and our chosen place was Bokong Nature Reserve in the north. This day turned into a full days travelling as well, although we didn't cover anywhere near as much distance this time round. It took us 5 kombies, numerous change overs and a lot of help from the few people who could speak English, only to end up in a village, pretty much in the middle of nowhere. Let me explain...We did make it to Bokong Nature Reserve, although it did require a quite scary ride up the edge of a mountain and back down (remember kombies aren't the safest of transport in the first place, never mind adding in a steep ascent). However, contrary to what the Lonely Planet said, the visitors centre didn't offer camping. This pretty much left us stranded in the middle of nowhere with nowhere to sleep for the night. The kombi then took us to the nearest village, though, where we managed to find a holiday village type place (after a trek down a mountain with all our stuff) that offered us a single shally for the night. This place was DESERTED! I'm not even exaggerating when I say we didn't see another person the whole evening and morning we were there! With only a kettle and some cups (which Robyn had to go hunt down) we had instant noodles out a cup for dinner, after a whole days travelling only to arrive in the middle of nowhere. We had to laugh, as annoying as the situation was, it has been a funny and adventurous day and the area we had somehow ended up in was extremely beautiful!
The next day, it was time to leave the middle of nowhere and head back to Maseru. The following day we were heading to Jo'Burg so wanted to be near the border in the morning so as we could leave the country and be on our way as early as possible. The trip back was MUCH easier, although did require a trek back up the mountain and one of the most squished kombi rides I've ever experienced. Eventually we made it to Maseru Backpackers, which is quite possibly one of the worst backpackers I've ever been to. All they had facility wise was a toilet block and a kitchen (that didn't even have any pots or pans)! So with nothing else to do, we sat in the kitchen most of the evening just writing in our journals (by this point I was ALMOST up to date). Just as we were heading to bed, in preparation for our early rise the next day, a thunderstorm began. Now, our tent doesn't do well in wind, and that's exactly what it was windy. The sides of the tent were collapsing and all I could think was “thank goodness it's not raining”. And then what happened? It began to absolutely pour it down! Anything that was against the sides began to get soaked and eventually it got so bad that it actually started to rain inside the tent! By this point I'd had enough, so grabbed my small backpack and sleeping bag and moved to the toilet block. Eventually even Robyn couldn't handle it any more, and we took all our stuff out the tent, moved it into the toilet block and then moved the tent and tied it to the door so it wouldn't blow away. And that's the story of how we ended up sleeping in a toilet block in Maseru. I didn't get to sleep until 3am and we had a 6am start the same morning. Although it was a bit harder this time, we still found the strength to laugh about this one as well!
The next day, or should I say same day, it was time to head to Jo'burg. We were up and packed early and by 7am had crossed the border and were on our way to Bloemfontein where we could catch a kombi to Jo'burg. Getting to Jo'burg was easy enough and by 2pm we were heading into the city. Right into down town Jo'burg I should say. Not a place you want to be. As I looked on out the window as the kombi drove down dirty, burnt down streets, I REALLY didn't want to have to get out. Beth was coming to pick us up, but we were going to arrive before she did. I have never been so scared in all my life! The street was jam-packed full of people, it was dirty, cars lay burnt down, buildings abandoned, it just didn't have a good vibe to it at all. Luckily a man helped us with our things to the nearest restaurant (chickin' lickin') where we waited for Beth to come. Soon enough she arrived, we got our stuff in the car and we were out of there! I'm just glad I made it out that place without being mugged!
The next couple of days were just spent hanging out in Beth's flat, watching tv and chilling in her lounge. She is so lucky to have her own sofa and TV! All I have to myself is my tiny room! We helped out at her project some of the time as well. She works at “Cotlands”, which is an orphange type organisation that takes in orphans, abandoned children and those needing extra and gives them a home and support. It was a really good experience to see a different project from our own and work in a more social care situation than teaching.
On Wednesday 11th of January it was time to head home! We caught an early kombi (although it was more like a REALLY nice mini-bus) from Park Station (much safer area this time) that took us all the way to Manzini. Probably the easiest stretch of travelling we had done the whole holiday!
Once we had reached Manzini it was straight on our final kombi that would take us back to Big Bend. I felt very proud as I walked through the taxi rank, not needing any help to find the correct kombi. Definitely a local now! And I had been back in Swaziland all of 5 minutes when I had my first marriage proposal of the year. It was good to be back! Stepping out that kombi in Big Bend was the biggest shock I've ever had. The heat was UNBELIEVABLE! I'd forgotten how hot it gets here and in the time we had been away it had only got hotter! Take me back to the cool coastal breeze!
So, that's me back home now. My clothes are clean and I'm no longer living out a rucksack which is a lovely feeling! Work has started again and this morning we made a trip to Injabulo to sign up all the kids. Ready to start teaching now! This year Robyn and I have switched classes, so I'm now going to be teaching the younger Lizards class. A new challenge for me but one I'm looking forward to! I've had an amazing 6 weeks travelling, and it's something I don't think I'll ever forget, but I'm now ready to settle back into life in Big Bend and make the most of the 8 months I have left here!
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